I just changed out the front disc pads on my 2003 Santa Fe and thought I would share it for anyone else who is thinking of doing it themselves. Before I attempted it, I looked for info on how to do them, and could not find that much.
Mine is a 4WD, 2.7L without anti-lock brakes and had 40,000 miles on the orig brakes. On my last trip to the dealer they told me the pads were paper thin, but when I changed them, they had about 1/8 in. left on them (a few more thousand miles?)
Here is how it went:
Car was on level ground, with emergency brake on. I used a 2 ton portable hydraulic jack, and placed it under the lower "A" arm. If you want to jack the car under the body, you will need to have a jack that goes very high (mine did not) or use the sizzor jack that comes with the car (not recommended) For safety, I placed a jackstand under the body by the lifing point.
Removed the wheel
Removed the 2 (top and bottom) bolts that hold the piston part of the caliper to the stationary part of the caliper.
Pulled the piston part of the caliper away from the other part. Carefully rested that part on top of the rotor, (or hang it with a bungee -the rubber brake line is attached to this part so dont let it hang or fall) The old brake pads will remain on the stationary frame.
Removed the old pads. The outer one slides out towards you, the inner one slides away from you towards the car. You may have to wiggle them a bit to get them out. Remember which one goes where. The inner one has a brake sensor metal tab on the top end of it in case you forget. The sping clips on the top and bottom of the frame do not get removed.
Cleaned any dirt or dust from the assembly.
Re-installed the new pads by sliding them in the same way I slid out the old ones. Follow the directions that come with the new pads regarding the application of any grease or compounds that come with them (depends on brand)
Using a "C" clamp or similar (I used an old set of wooden carpenter clamps) I slowly, and carefully, squeezed the caliper pistons back until they were flush. There are 2 pistons on the caliper, but do one at a time. Dont crush the brake line or anything else when you are doing this.
Slid the piston part of the caliper back onto the other part (that holds the pads). If you have trouble sliding it back on, recheck that the pistons are pushed in (flush) all the way.
Lined up the holes (top and bottom) and re-installed the 2 bolts. Tightened them securely.
Re-installed the wheel.
Removeded the jackstand, and carefully lowered the car.
Tightened the wheel lug nuts - Done !
It took me about 15 minutes for each side.
I am not a mechanic, and had not done brakes in many years, so dont take this as "expert" advise. I am sharing this only to help those who think they have the mechanical ability, but are a little aprehensive as I was. If you have the tools and abilty to do simple auto repairs, you can hadle this.
I saved at least $100 for about 45 minutes work, as well as the time waiting at a shop. (HYUNDAI WANTED $250) Also, my rotors were in perfect shape, no scoring or warping so I did not cut them. Brakes pads were Pro-Stop Ceramic from Pep Boys ($39.99)
Much easier than I expected. I wish I had been brave enough to try this on my Sonata before I spent $500 on a full brake job last year!
Good Luck -
Mine is a 4WD, 2.7L without anti-lock brakes and had 40,000 miles on the orig brakes. On my last trip to the dealer they told me the pads were paper thin, but when I changed them, they had about 1/8 in. left on them (a few more thousand miles?)
Here is how it went:
Car was on level ground, with emergency brake on. I used a 2 ton portable hydraulic jack, and placed it under the lower "A" arm. If you want to jack the car under the body, you will need to have a jack that goes very high (mine did not) or use the sizzor jack that comes with the car (not recommended) For safety, I placed a jackstand under the body by the lifing point.
Removed the wheel
Removed the 2 (top and bottom) bolts that hold the piston part of the caliper to the stationary part of the caliper.
Pulled the piston part of the caliper away from the other part. Carefully rested that part on top of the rotor, (or hang it with a bungee -the rubber brake line is attached to this part so dont let it hang or fall) The old brake pads will remain on the stationary frame.
Removed the old pads. The outer one slides out towards you, the inner one slides away from you towards the car. You may have to wiggle them a bit to get them out. Remember which one goes where. The inner one has a brake sensor metal tab on the top end of it in case you forget. The sping clips on the top and bottom of the frame do not get removed.
Cleaned any dirt or dust from the assembly.
Re-installed the new pads by sliding them in the same way I slid out the old ones. Follow the directions that come with the new pads regarding the application of any grease or compounds that come with them (depends on brand)
Using a "C" clamp or similar (I used an old set of wooden carpenter clamps) I slowly, and carefully, squeezed the caliper pistons back until they were flush. There are 2 pistons on the caliper, but do one at a time. Dont crush the brake line or anything else when you are doing this.
Slid the piston part of the caliper back onto the other part (that holds the pads). If you have trouble sliding it back on, recheck that the pistons are pushed in (flush) all the way.
Lined up the holes (top and bottom) and re-installed the 2 bolts. Tightened them securely.
Re-installed the wheel.
Removeded the jackstand, and carefully lowered the car.
Tightened the wheel lug nuts - Done !
It took me about 15 minutes for each side.
I am not a mechanic, and had not done brakes in many years, so dont take this as "expert" advise. I am sharing this only to help those who think they have the mechanical ability, but are a little aprehensive as I was. If you have the tools and abilty to do simple auto repairs, you can hadle this.
I saved at least $100 for about 45 minutes work, as well as the time waiting at a shop. (HYUNDAI WANTED $250) Also, my rotors were in perfect shape, no scoring or warping so I did not cut them. Brakes pads were Pro-Stop Ceramic from Pep Boys ($39.99)
Much easier than I expected. I wish I had been brave enough to try this on my Sonata before I spent $500 on a full brake job last year!
Good Luck -
