So the compressor has leak between the front and rear compressor halves there at the joint, seen a few leak like that on the Hyundai compressors.

Remove the right front tire, and the small panel that hide the front of engine there, and if equipped with the large front belly pan, remove it also.

Recover the R-134, flip the drive belt off, un-plug the magnetic clutch coil wire, and remove the 2 hoses after the R-134 recovered. From there, remove the 4 bolts that hold compressor to body, and remove compressor through the right wheel well where you took the small panel off.

If I recall, you might need to lift the engine a wee bit via oil pan (use a wood block between pan and jack), remove the front mount from engine to right hand frame rail, then rasie a bit more to get the compressor around the corner of the block....

Assemble in reverse order.

I assume you is using a "recovery-charge station".. after you vacuum the system, program the charge amount, and charge through the high side of system along with the oil/dye if adding from the machine (engine not running).. thus no issue of momentary hydro-lock of compressor if the charge were to gather in the compressor. When vehilce is running, then it is safe to only add via the lo side, as the hi side will be in the 150 - 200# area, and that will blow up a hand held can if you doing it that way.

If you choose to turn the compressor, use a socket on the bolt head there on the compressor cluch drive plate, and carefully rotate clockwise. Myself, I just leave the engine run at normal idle speed and just push the A/C button on the dash.

Compressor seizure is not a happy job.. because it was running, and spewing deris out, the condenser and drier (actually part of the condenser on this model), you have a system full of trash all way up to the expansion valve, which will likely be clogged now, and wont cool proper.

I have 2 cars in service currently that advisor wont/hasn't try tried to sell new parts. Have an Accent that locked up, put new compressor on, no cool when run. Changed expansion valve, tried to do a minor blow on the system (for free), and it went 1000 miles, came back last week, valve clogged again, blew it out (valve), and hit the condenser again with compressed air again (advisor wont sell condenser & evaporator) and re-charged.


2nd car is an XG-350, seized, and valve clogged... it cooled a wee bit, was told to put it out for customer to take.. not seen it since.

You can try to clean condenser, take it out, remove the dessicant bag via plug on bottom of the cylindrical looking thing on end of condenser, and have at it.... install a new bag (97802-25000) after cleaning. Try to flush the hoses/lines seperate, and blow out the expansion valve real well. The evaporator is a toss up, as trash has to get through the tiny orifice hole, which will clog first due to debris, but might let som dirty oil through though. Rather than tear dash out, on the cheap you can try blowing air throught the evaporator, and see what the oil inside looks like.


In the end, compressor failure is not a straight up simple job, as trash goes every where, and as soon as you install anew compressor, you start movement of trash again till something happens, as condenser has a lot of storage space internally to hide/store debris till R-134 and oil start moving again. Hopefully you didn't get hit too hard, and be able to get by with some time spent trying to clean.

I had a Previa about 6-7 yr ago that had seizure, fella had compressor replaced, in 2 weeks he said that one took a dump (this was in Texas)... van show up at our dealership, customer says A/C inop, I get van, and there is no compressor !! Just the 2 lines sitting there... I replaced the entire system on this van, both front and rear A/C units and lines, not a fun job.

SantaFizzle wrote:

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Are you a Hyundai dealer mechanic? I won't tell : )


Scott



Cat's out of the bag --

http://hyundaisantafemessageboard.yuku.com/topic/5400

http://hyundaisantafemessageboard.yuku.com/topic/5481