Here's an interesting problem I have - the driver's door lock will unlock with the remote and the button on the door, but it won't lock with the
remote or the door button. This was an intermittent problem where sometimes it would lock, other times in wouldn't. Now it seems to have stopped locking
all together. I took the the door panel off and checked out the locking mechanism to make sure nothing was loose, but it all looked fine. Any ideas?
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Driver's door lock won't lock
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 Slade |
Driver's door lock won't lock |
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Posts: 9 (06/27/09 05:06:13) |
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lovemysantafe |
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Posts: 3593 (06/27/09 12:52:47) Moderator |
There are power actuators in there for each locking mechanism. This allows them to be operated by hand (by flipping the lock tumbler on the handle) or by the
power lock controls. I had a similar issue with my tailgate lock actuator and it behaved in exactly the way you describe before failing completely. It was an
expensive fix but worth it.
Santa Fe -- It doesn't get any better than this!
"Like people, every car possesses a unique character, with its own DNA, talents, and idiosyncrasies. Push it too hard and it'll turn on you, as
a person would. If it's worth anything, it gets more interesting the more you get to know it."
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Slade |
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Posts: 11 (06/27/09 13:59:12) |
So you think I need a new actuator, and replacing the door lock/power mirror control panel won't do me any good? I've seen those on ebay for $39.99,
but I'm guessing an actuator will be a bit more. Thanks for your input.
Edit: Is this what you think I might need: actuator
Last Edited By: Slade
06/27/09 14:32:37.
Edited 1 times.
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DSHornet |
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Posts: 113 (06/27/09 15:42:05) |
It might work, but you might try this link first. This a Hyundai dealer that sells on the internet. They can answer your questions and you will get the right
OEM part.
http://www.hyundai-parts.com/ Paw-paw Don, y'all --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Favorite saying: "There's never an apology needed for exercising the Golden Rule" --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Military Veteran (US Air Force, Alabama Air National Guard, 24 years total) Son of Milton (US Army, World War II, North Africa, Sicily, and Italy) Son-in-law of Otis (US Navy, World War II, Atlantic and Pacific Theaters) Father of Matthew (US Army, Tennessee National Guard, Iraq War Veteran) Father-in-law of Mark (US Marines) Nephew of Joseph Donald (US Army, World War II, Burma Campaign) |
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sbr711 |
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Posts: 296 (06/27/09 17:46:04) Moderator |
The linked E-Bay part is not a Hyundai style part.... To get the lock actuator,,, you must buy the complete actuator-latch assembly.
Not a hard part to change, just a little bit of time dealing with the regulator panel, then changing the assembly... Go to Hyundai, get the correct part the first time. |
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Slade |
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Posts: 12 (06/28/09 06:56:37) |
I took the door panel off again and see that the actuator is hidden on the inside of the door behind the crossmember. At first glance there doesn't appear
to be an easy way to remove the actuator. The only bolt in the vicinity is a gold-colored one, but I think that's for the crossmember. Would I be better
off letting the dealer change it? I can only imagine what that will cost.
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Slade |
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Posts: 13 (06/28/09 07:55:47) |
Upon further inspection I think I figured out how to remove it (maybe). You need to remove the 3 black screws on the edge of the door and the actuator is held
to the silver crosspiece by two white clips. That leads to another potential problem. If the actuator/cables/door handle assembly comes as a one-piece unit,
then how to remove it form the door? The cable that runs from the actuator to the handle runs through a gap between the door and the window support. There
appears to be no way to get the cable out of there w/o cutting it. And if that's the case, how do you route the new cable?
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sbr711 |
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Posts: 297 (06/29/09 08:12:03) Moderator |
Slade, you going in the right direction....
Remove cable ends fron door handle. Prodeed removing that large panel, and you is going to snake the cable out of the tunnel.... seem to recall a "zip-strip' you will need to cut. Somewhere along the line you need to reach inside and unplug the connector from the actuator. With the panel enough out of your way, look at the door jamb where the latch is, see them (3) screws, remove them, this will allow latch assembly to fall free of door panel, and you will need to remove the lock cylinder link from the arm on the key cylinder, and the link from the door handle, look in with light, you'll see how it comes apart.. Re-assemble in somewhat reverse order.. Make sure you route the (1) cable back through the tunnel, or the regulator will get into a heated discussion with the cable, wont be good.. |
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Slade |
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Posts: 14 (06/29/09 15:56:30) |
I looked at where the cable meets the handle, but couldn't tell one way or the other if I could disconnect it. Seems to make sense that it should in order
to route the cable through that gap. Guess all I need to do now is see how much one of these things cost.
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DSHornet |
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Posts: 117 (06/30/09 17:22:16) |
If you haven't had the pleasure of working inside your car's doors yet, you'll notice that your hands will be well covered with nicks and cuts from
all the sharp edges. Be careful, don't get in a hurry, and be cautious! This comes from the experience I had a few months ago when I put sound deadening
material in my car as part of a noise abatement project.
Twenty-twenty hindsight suggests getting a roll of plastic electrical tape and put it on the steel edges of the parts inside the door. It keeps from leaving your blood on the steel parts. OUCH! Paw-paw Don, y'all --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Favorite saying: "There's never an apology needed for exercising the Golden Rule" --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Military Veteran (US Air Force, Alabama Air National Guard, 24 years total) Son of Milton (US Army, World War II, North Africa, Sicily, and Italy) Son-in-law of Otis (US Navy, World War II, Atlantic and Pacific Theaters) Father of Matthew (US Army, Tennessee National Guard, Iraq War Veteran) Father-in-law of Mark (US Marines) Nephew of Joseph Donald (US Army, World War II, Burma Campaign) |
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Slade |
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Posts: 22 (07/13/09 13:45:35) |
Finally got around to getting a price - $148. Though it mysteriously started working again yesterday, locked everytime w/remote and button. I doubt it will
last.
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ceejay2005.friendshipcorne... |
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Posts: 2 (09/17/09 05:05:31) |
It sounds like you have something unhooked, or a bad relay. They only way to find out is to get in there and check everything.
arizona locksmith |
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Slade |
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Posts: 38 (10/02/09 13:57:39) |
Finally got around to replacing the actuator today. Let's just say it's something I don't want to have to do again. So far it locks and unlocks
like it should, but I'll reserve final judgment until after a few days.
Naked door: 
Window guide was in the way, had to figure out how to remove it. It's held in by one bolt and it slides right out (took me awhile to figure that out, though). 
Actuator after window guide removed: 
Even had to take of the outside door handle. That's the old actuator on the ground: 
The part only cost about $60. Saved about $100 by putting it in myself. Sorry for some of the blurry pics - not a lot of room inside the door, just had to point and shoot.
Last Edited By: Slade
10/02/09 16:44:18.
Edited 2 times.
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Slade |
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Posts: 55 (03/15/10 09:43:24) |
Replacing the actuator didn't help so I got a used door lock/power mirror control off of ebay for $20 (dealer wanted $168). Put it in today and the door still doesn't lock. I guess the only other cause would be a loose/broken wire somewhere in the harness. Checked the wires were they plug into the door lock and didn't see any loose or broken ones. I'm not about to replace the harness so it looks like I'll just have to live with it.
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- Forum Rules
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- Outside US
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- Archives I
- Terri's Parlor!
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